Papatowai: Old Coach Road & Old Possumers Track

Discovering Papatowai

I was driving through Papatowai in the Catlins recently when I noticed the sign for ‘Beach’ and decided it was worth investigating. After a short walk from my car, the beach view I witnessed was nothing short of epic. The place name Papatowai means where the forest meets the sea, it did, and it was breathtaking. I haven’t seen anything like it before in New Zealand, and I was completely mesmerised.

Tahakopa beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago.

Tahakopa beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago.

Tahakopa River, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I wanted to explore the forest before me, but that adventure would wait for another day. As I was driving home I noticed on the north side of the Papatowai bridge a walking track. Bingo.

PART 1: OLD COACH ROAD

The track I saw from my car is called Old Coach Road. It is a historic track and like the name suggests, the road was used to coach people and supplies by horse from boats in the old days. The track is excellent and immediately I was engaged by the surrounding bush.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The Old Coach Road stays close to the edge of the beach. The historic road is wide and an easy meandering walk. I loved the abundance of ferns on the forest floor, and compared with other bush walks I have been on, a lot less chaotic to photograph.

Old Coach Road, Papatowai, Catlins, NZ.

Old Coach Road, Papatowai, Catlins, NZ.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Eventually Old Coach road follows to the edge of the forest and you can see out beyond to the Tahakopa river.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

PART 2: TAHAKOPA BEACH

Emerging out onto Tahakopa beach is a real treat. Looking at how the forest meets the sea is fascinating. I had bumped into a local earlier on the track who told me the marker for Old Possumers track was about three quarters the way down the beach toward the cliffs. So off I went photographing everything!

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

There are plenty of washed up or uprooted tree trunks to compose images with on the beach. The day was overcast, and no light was kicking off but it was still loads of fun. My favourite image from the day is below.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

PART 3: OLD POSSUMERS TRACK

Finding the orange triangle marker for the Old Possumers track requires a bit of careful looking and a small dose of luck. I was climbing up the sand bank along the beach quite a fair bit to take photographs, so it was a nice surprise to accidently stumble across the marker.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Once on Old Possumers track it was quickly back down into the bush, but not before I got one more image of these two wind swept trees overlooking the beach.

Old Possumers Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track is well marked with the orange arrows to guide the way. When I visited 2 large trees had fallen over the path, but apart from those obstacles it was easy to follow.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I thought I would take a couple of detail images of vegetation on the track.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

As always in NZ, follow the orange arrows.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The image below here was taken walking over a swampy bog on an elevated wooden pathway.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

On a very windy day, I’d be tempted to avoid walking Old Possumers track, there are more than a few fallen trees around.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track has been beautifully crafted by the Department of Conservation, down below is an example of a walkway to help you walk through some of the boggy terrain, although be careful not to slip on the logs.

Old Possumers Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I finished the Old Coach Road and Old Possumers track in about 4 hours. However, I spent a long time documenting the journey with my camera. From a photographers perspective this adventure was amazing. There are so many photo opportunities at Papatowai, it really is a dream location. I would say Old Coach Road is achievable for most peoples fitness levels, but the uneven terrain of Old Possumers Track is more suited to sure-footed people who can avoid twisting an ankle with the odd slippery log on the pathway here and there.

In summary this is the best bush walk I have experienced in the Catlins, or anywhere for that matter. I can’t wait to do it again.

Dunedin Landscape Photography: Tunnel Beach

Getting There

Access to Tunnel beach is located at the end of Tunnel beach road about 10 minutes drive from the city centre. The track to the beach is well constructed but it drops down onto the beach at a steep gradient. I have seen people go down easy enough but some do struggle to ascend again. There is a park bench or 2 to rest on if required. The walk down to the beach is no more than 10 minutes, however photographers might want to stop and take an image on the way down.

Elevated view of Tunnel beach in spring with gorse flowering

Elevated view of Tunnel beach in spring with gorse flowering

Plenty of Compositions

Tunnel beach offers up various viewpoints to take interesting images.

The steep pathway down to the beach creates a nice leading line into the composition.

The steep pathway down to the beach creates a nice leading line into the composition.

These small fences have only been erected in the past year or so to help stop tourists from falling over cliff edges. I have used the grass and the fence to create a leading line into the image.

These small fences have only been erected in the past year or so to help stop tourists from falling over cliff edges. I have used the grass and the fence to create a leading line into the image.

Tunnel beach at sunrise. The foreground clump of land helps balance the image.

Tunnel beach at sunrise. The foreground clump of land helps balance the image.

Sunrise on Tunnel beach.

Sunrise on Tunnel beach.

Here I am photographing from the most dominant cliff edge to the coastline beyond.

Here I am photographing from the most dominant cliff edge to the coastline beyond.

Here I just focused on the grass and the flowers in the foreground letting the cliff fall out of focus.

Here I just focused on the grass and the flowers in the foreground letting the cliff fall out of focus.

The arch is a great subject to shoot, but be careful of rouge waves and the slippery rock.

The arch is a great subject to shoot, but be careful of rouge waves and the slippery rock.

Summary

These are just a few examples of possible compositions at Tunnel beach. I know there are plenty more images to be had from this great location. You will be pleased to know there is tunnel access down onto the beach.

If you are visiting Dunedin a trip to tunnel beach is a must, but I suggest either going early or late to avoid the tourists.

Trev Hill is a professional photographer based in Dunedin.

Whanganui river canoe adventure

My mate Jason took me to some great Cuba street bars in Wellington about 3 weeks ago, a few craft beers later I was persuaded to join him on the Whanganui river for a canoe adventure. Well, what an adventure it turned out to be. A combination of agony and harmony, calm and excitement. If you read no further and just take a look at my images please understand this; the Whanganui river is an adventure, a stunning pristine stretch of water, lined with lush native bush. If you have a reasonable fitness, I highly recommend you give it a go.

Canoes by the riverside at Mangawaiiti campsite.

Prep: Taking a Vegan Holiday

I have been a vegan for the last 4 months, but I knew taking this trip with 5 other meat eaters would mean I might want to relax my diet and just eat the same as everyone else. My mate Jas loves food, so we had a big supermarket shop including; steak, mince, salami, 2 dozen eggs, biscuits, vegetables, fruit, snack bars and a few beers. Good food is awesome, but remember we had to take it all with us, and our canoe ended up with 4 heavy barrels and two large bags on it for the duration.

HELPFUL TIP 1 - Buy dehydrated food packets from outdoor shops to save on weight and hassle. It is important to note that the New Zealand Department of Conservation asks everyone to take their rubbish with them. There are no rubbish bins provided at any campsite, so any sort of food scraps and waste have to leave with you. The upside of this is you see no rubbish anywhere, it is brilliant.

Phil and Colin paddle through the calm water of the Whanganui river

Day One: Completely knackered

The trip we were on was spread over 3 days and in total we planned to travel 88km by canoe. On the first day we were travelling 47km. I didn’t really think too much about it, I just thought let’s get stuck in and have some fun. After about 3 hours of paddling I could feel my body start to waiver. This wasn’t at all relaxing, it was hard work. To top it off a large group of older kayakers who looked at least 65+ overtook Jas and I. I watched on in awe as an elderly grandmother and grandad just churned through the water in a blur past us.

By hour 5 my forearm was cramping, my back was killing me and my bum was super sore from the plain wooden seat. But despite the discomfort the scenery was sublime, I was completely in love with the long stretches of still water, it was good for the mind. Wild goats grazed by the waterside. This was truely special.

Finally we reached the Mangawaiiti campsite sometime around 5.30pm. Just when you think you can relax you then realise the campsite is elevated about 7 stories above water level. When the Whanganui river floods it fills the narrow ravines of the river and it rises dramatically. So Jas and I had to lug all 4 heavy barrels and 2 large bags up the steep ‘Baldwin street’ like path to the campsite.

HELPFUL TIP 2 - All of the campsites on the Whanganui river are elevated from the river so the lighter you travel, the easier it is for set up.

The steep ravine walls of the Whanganui river rise up and tower over you. They were as imposing as they were beautiful with the calm tranquil water of the river below.

Day 2: The Bridge to Nowhere

Day 2 certainly felt like it should go a lot quicker since we were only travelling about 20 km. After 2 hours of paddling we stopped to take a bush walk to the ‘Bridge to Nowhere.’ The Department of Conservation have done a marvellous job with the track and there are 3 long drop toilets available for use.

The Bridge to nowhere, Whanganui, New Zeland.

View from the Bridge to Nowhere. Sharp eyes saw eels in the water below.

Back on the water I hit a wall, and it was only the taste of a fresh golden delicious apple that gave me the energy to keep going. That would be the last time I struggled, for the rest of the journey things just fell into place.

HELPFUL TIP 3: if you are sharing a tent or are in close proximity to other middle-aged men, please take ear plugs. They snore loud and proud. One of our group sounded like a bear growling. Most of the other campers seemed to be fit young people, I can only imagine how much they enjoyed the snore fest.

This scene of the Whanganui river reminds me of an impressionist painting.

DAY 3: MAN OVERBOARD

The whole trip people kept banging on and on about the big rapids on day 3. Well, I have to say if anything the excitement and anticipation those rapids brought really added some spice to the trip. By this stage my body was becoming adjusted to the demands of paddling on a canoe, plus we had lightened our load of food and beverage considerably. When Jas and I tackled the first big rapid, it was a relief and really a lot of fun. the canoe bounced up and down, but kept its line we took so I stayed afloat. The next big rapid up ahead did have some cause for concern as a canoe was stuck sideways against a boulder with the rushing water holding it there. We had to go past that boulder and both Jas and I just put the hammer down and went for it. We made it through and were riding high on confidence. But the next rapid had the nickname ‘50/50’

A canoe capsizes on the 50/50 rapid, Whanganui River.

We nearly made it through, but came unstuck when we hit the side of a rapid and I went in. The water was lovely and fresh and to be honest it was a fitting and memorable way to finish the adventure.

HELPFUL TIP 4: Don’t be too concerned about falling out of a canoe, the worst part of it is having to bail out all the water and the strong likelihood your belongings just got a little wet.

HELPFUL TIP 5: invest in a few cheap dry sacks to help provide an extra layer of protection for your gear to stay dry.

All in all this was an amazing adventure. As long as you have a reasonable fitness level a Whanganui River canoe adventure should go on your bucket list.