Papatowai: Old Coach Road & Old Possumers Track

Discovering Papatowai

I was driving through Papatowai in the Catlins recently when I noticed the sign for ‘Beach’ and decided it was worth investigating. After a short walk from my car, the beach view I witnessed was nothing short of epic. The place name Papatowai means where the forest meets the sea, it did, and it was breathtaking. I haven’t seen anything like it before in New Zealand, and I was completely mesmerised.

Tahakopa beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago.

Tahakopa beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago.

Tahakopa River, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I wanted to explore the forest before me, but that adventure would wait for another day. As I was driving home I noticed on the north side of the Papatowai bridge a walking track. Bingo.

PART 1: OLD COACH ROAD

The track I saw from my car is called Old Coach Road. It is a historic track and like the name suggests, the road was used to coach people and supplies by horse from boats in the old days. The track is excellent and immediately I was engaged by the surrounding bush.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The Old Coach Road stays close to the edge of the beach. The historic road is wide and an easy meandering walk. I loved the abundance of ferns on the forest floor, and compared with other bush walks I have been on, a lot less chaotic to photograph.

Old Coach Road, Papatowai, Catlins, NZ.

Old Coach Road, Papatowai, Catlins, NZ.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Eventually Old Coach road follows to the edge of the forest and you can see out beyond to the Tahakopa river.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

PART 2: TAHAKOPA BEACH

Emerging out onto Tahakopa beach is a real treat. Looking at how the forest meets the sea is fascinating. I had bumped into a local earlier on the track who told me the marker for Old Possumers track was about three quarters the way down the beach toward the cliffs. So off I went photographing everything!

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

There are plenty of washed up or uprooted tree trunks to compose images with on the beach. The day was overcast, and no light was kicking off but it was still loads of fun. My favourite image from the day is below.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

PART 3: OLD POSSUMERS TRACK

Finding the orange triangle marker for the Old Possumers track requires a bit of careful looking and a small dose of luck. I was climbing up the sand bank along the beach quite a fair bit to take photographs, so it was a nice surprise to accidently stumble across the marker.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Once on Old Possumers track it was quickly back down into the bush, but not before I got one more image of these two wind swept trees overlooking the beach.

Old Possumers Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track is well marked with the orange arrows to guide the way. When I visited 2 large trees had fallen over the path, but apart from those obstacles it was easy to follow.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I thought I would take a couple of detail images of vegetation on the track.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

As always in NZ, follow the orange arrows.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The image below here was taken walking over a swampy bog on an elevated wooden pathway.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

On a very windy day, I’d be tempted to avoid walking Old Possumers track, there are more than a few fallen trees around.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track has been beautifully crafted by the Department of Conservation, down below is an example of a walkway to help you walk through some of the boggy terrain, although be careful not to slip on the logs.

Old Possumers Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I finished the Old Coach Road and Old Possumers track in about 4 hours. However, I spent a long time documenting the journey with my camera. From a photographers perspective this adventure was amazing. There are so many photo opportunities at Papatowai, it really is a dream location. I would say Old Coach Road is achievable for most peoples fitness levels, but the uneven terrain of Old Possumers Track is more suited to sure-footed people who can avoid twisting an ankle with the odd slippery log on the pathway here and there.

In summary this is the best bush walk I have experienced in the Catlins, or anywhere for that matter. I can’t wait to do it again.

Waipohatu walking track and waterfalls

I’m a big fan of the Catlins. As a landscape photographer I feel it offers plenty of locations for interesting photography. I’m not sure I love waterfalls all that much, but, I really enjoy walking through pristine New Zealand native bush. In the case of the Waipohatu walking track, you not only get a lovely bush walk but two waterfalls to photograph. How could I resist.

Getting There

The Waipohatu walking track is located on the way to Curio Bay. Just take a detour toward Slope Point and then drive up Waipohatu Rd when it pops up on your right. I parked up at the picnic spot (with toilet) and started my walk from there.

Trees near where I parked my car on the Waipohatu walking track.

Stage One: A gentle stroll.

The first part of the walk includes the most photogenic bush of the adventure. The walk has been designed to accommodate wheelchair access so is very well constructed. I was very taken with this suspension bridge.

No more than 5 at a time over this suspension bridge.

The pathway was wide and user friendly with lovely large trees lining the route.

Waipohatu walking track.

Stage Two: An uphill slog.

After walking through the easy meandering track you come to a picnic area and then move on to the next part of the track. From this point the track becomes much more challenging. The track has plenty of tree roots, so watch your footing.

Follow the orange arrows on the Waipohatu walking track.

The track follows along a stream and eventually you get to cross it on this rather cool bridge.

After crossing the bridge the track climbs fairly steeply. if you have average fitness you should be fine, but it definitely got my heart rate going.

Stage 3: Waterfalls

After climbing for a while the track eventually flattens out and then dips down again toward the waterfalls. You will come to a juncture where you can go left or right. Both tracks lead to a waterfall. It has to be said that 2 for the price of one is always an attractive deal. I went right to the upper falls first.

Waipohatu waterfall, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The lower falls are really nice. A bit tricky for navigating the area, but that’s half the fun. I took a couple of images of the waterfall. In one I used the stunning ferns in the foreground to add depth. The image shows the young fronds coming through the centre of the plant creating the beautiful koru shape found in traditional Maori culture.

Waipohatu waterfall, Catlins, Otago, NZ

Waipohatu waterfall, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The trip out of the bush, was a lot faster as it was downhill for the first part. The DOC signs estimate about 2 hours for the walking, and seemed about right. All in all the Waipohatu walking track is a lovely day out. If you have reasonable fitness and are coordinated enough to navigate an uneven track with sludge and tree roots you should be fine.

Catlins River Track

I was in the waiting room of Mercy Hospital recently and on a coffee table was a book by local artist Murray Ayson. Murray’s paintings of Otago scenes were so beautiful. I was saddened to learn he had only just recently passed away, A few days later I bought a copy of the book from the Art Society in the Dunedin Railway Station. I plan to use it as inspiration for photography adventures in Otago. The first inspired journey from his paintings was the Catlins River walk.

Beautiful steps on the Catlins River walk track.

The journey to the Catlins river walk from Dunedin takes just under 2 hours. Access to the track is via the Tawanui Campsite, so head to Owaka, then depart the Scenic Southern route and take the Owaka Valley road, I got google maps to direct me from there.

I was unaware of heavy rainfall the night before so my visions of a tranquil and relaxing river walk were shattered completely. The river was a muddy and swollen mass, roaring with anger.

Catlins river after heavy rainfall the night before.

Catlins river after heavy rainfall the night before.

I wasn’t keen on gong anywhere near the waters edge as one slip could prove fatal. My river walk would instead need to focus on the rainforest. It was still raining and I was getting a right old soaking. I took an umbrella with me, and used it to cover my camera bag anytime I stopped to take a picture. The track is easy to follow and has some lovely small bridges and steps created to make the journey easier. I couldn’t get over how lush and green everything was. The moss lining the track was the most luminescent green I have ever seen.

Vibrant green moss lined track on the Catlins river.

Vibrant green moss lined track on the Catlins river.

There was so much water about, often the steep pathways had a flow of water, so I would recommend waterproof hiking boots if you take the track on a wet day. I also used a leg of my tripod as a makeshift hiking pole along with the umbrella to help keep me on the track. I am fairly sure this next image of a small waterfall would be nowhere near as impressive on a dry day.

After a night of heavy rain a small tributary on the Catlins river is turned into an impressive waterfall.

After a night of heavy rain a small tributary on the Catlins river is turned into an impressive waterfall.

The highlight of the adventure was seeing giant trees covered in moss. They were like something out of Lord Of The Rings, truely magical. These are the sort of trees photographers dream about, throw in some mist and I’d be a very happy camper.

Moss covered trees on the Catlins river track.

The track crosses the river a few times, but I turned around before I reached the first over-bridge after about 9000 steps as I knew I would be mucking about taking pictures on the way back. It was a real pleasure to be out in some pristine unspoilt rainforest, around every corner there was something new to appreciate.

A sea of ferns just off the Catlins River track.

A sea of ferns just off the Catlins River track.

The Catlins river track is definitely a path I will tread again, as I am curious about seeing how it looks in different seasons. I can highly recommend this adventure to any nature lover, just be prepared for wet weather.

Mornington Glory

Recently a friend of mine was singing the praises of the Mornington shops and I joked with her that my local Green Island shops were better. However, upon reflection I admit she she was right. The Mornington business district has definitely got some real mojo going on. It might not be as popular as St Clair, but if it keeps attracting new and exciting business enterprises, then I don’t see why it can’t become a hot spot for locals.

Thursday morning at Fallow and Fox is a great place to be if you love the delicate fragrance of fresh flowers.

First up is Mornington florist Linda and her lovely store Fallow & Fox. At Fallow and Fox, not only is there a bounty of fresh flowers passing through each week, but, there is also plenty of giftware. I have been supplying Linda with locally made wall dots of Dunedin scenery for the past few years, so, I know the popularity of her store. Simply put, Fallow and Fox delivers on what it does, and does it well.

A visual symphony of fresh flowers outside of Fallow and Fox on Mailer Street.

Every top-notch suburb shopping precinct in Dunedin needs an attraction to draw locals in. St Clair has a beach, it’s hard to top. However, hold the phone, because Mornington might not have opened Disneyland on Mailer street, but they sure did hit a home run with the return of a local icon and new family fun attraction.. An absolute genius came up with the idea of restoring the old Mornington trams and housing two of them by the park. They are gorgeous, I find them so much nicer than the Toitu Cable Car display lost in the darkness of dingy fluorescent lighting..

Mornington Cable Car 111 is a century old.

Fun fact, I was told by the cable car volunteer in the old days kids used to jump up and down on the tram in unison to try and derail it as it went down the hill.

The initials ‘LR’ carved into the restored kauri seats on Cable Car 111. This historic graffiti happened sometime between 1920 and 1957 when the cable car was in service.

The initials ‘LR’ carved into the restored kauri seats on Cable Car 111. This historic graffiti happened sometime between 1920 and 1957 when the cable car was in service.

The cable car is a winner all day long for young and old and gets a big thumbs up. Plus, after you have had fun at the cable cars you simply cross the pedestrian crossing a few metres away, and on the other side of the road is a dedicated ice cream store to treat the kids with.

Patti's & Cream, Mornington

Patti’s & Cream is literally the new kid on the block as its been open less than a month. A quick check on their website shows they make a variety of exotic gourmet ice-creams. When I visited I overheard a customer say they didn’t like the idea of beer in an ice cream. He was given a sample of ‘Beer and Nuts’, and the first words out of his mouth were “that’s delicious.” Enough said.

We all know of (and have probably been part of) the huge cues that form outside the Rob Roy dairy just for an ice cream, well as it happens the cue has lined up down the Mailer Street all the way to he Night and Day for Patti’s & Cream. Surely that feat alone achieved in less than a month deserves a big tick.

At Grid Coffee Roasters there is no shortage of design flourishes with a hand panted menu on the rustic brick wall as well as a snaking copper down-pipe supplying cold water to the coffee machine.

At Grid Coffee Roasters there is no shortage of design flourishes with a hand panted menu on the rustic brick wall as well as a snaking copper down-pipe supplying cold water to the coffee machine.

Just next door is the Grid Coffee Roasters run by Gav and Nic. I’ve known Gav and Nic from their days running the Baldwin street cafe. I love this place, and it’s definitely a top spot to grab a coffee on the go

One of about 3 roasters at the Grid Coffee Roasters, who supply cafes from around the country freshly roasted coffee beans,

One of about 3 roasters at the Grid Coffee Roasters, who supply cafes from around the country freshly roasted coffee beans,

Nestled in with the Grid Coffee Roasters is another wee gem of a store, The Good Food Co. Anja (Daughter of Nic) has done a stunning job with the locally sourced and imported specialty goods. By all accounts you have to be quick in the morning to secure a fresh loaf of bread.

Grid Coffee
Fresh produce at the Good Food Co.

Fresh produce at the Good Food Co.

Was this a definitive guide to shopping in Mornington, no, there is loads of other shops. However, these are the shops turning my head, that made me rethink my understanding of this shopping precinct located near the heart of Dunedin City. If you haven’t popped in to experience Mornington of late, well, you might just be missing out.